Paris

I've been putting off finishing my summer trip posts with info about my week in Paris, and then it all exploded.  Literally.  With everything going on in the last 24 hours, I can't help but think about walking those same streets just three months ago.  

I first went to Paris when I was 20, on my first trip abroad.  It was my first time in a country where I couldn't speak the language (6 months of 7th grade introductory French does NOT count!), my first time in Europe, and my first time winning something inside a candy-bar wrapper. I never got to use those free movie tickets, but I did develop a love for travel that stays with me today.  It was rainy, cold, lonely, and I spent $50 on Metro tickets trying to figure out the machines in French.  I still have some of the francs in my box-o-coins. Here, have a throwback photo:

My mother was the one who wanted to see Paris, and she and my dad were supposed to visit at the end of my Italy trip and fly to Paris on the way home.  Three days before I left my mom had a freak accident that involved surgery and long recovery, so they couldn't come.  I debated quite a while about whether to go at all, and in the end basically peer pressured a friend into buying at trans-Atlantic plane ticket to join me.  

Paris the second time around was nothing like I remembered.  It might be easy to chalk it up to more English or being more familiar in foreign countries but it was more.  Paris was friendly, a happy city.  It was cosmopolitan- you saw wondering American tourists standing beside Middle Eastern men with multiple wives at crosswalks.  There were so many languages, with an undercurrent of French that was somehow more understandable this time around.  Though remembering to speak it was tough- we did a lot of "Si.  OUI!  Damnit, not again!"

So what do you do in Paris for a week?  You walk.  You wander through neighborhoods pausing to take photos where famous artists lived.  You eat delicious desserts and drink a lot of chilled wine on summer evenings.  You take photos of art, of statues, of food, of yourself at awkward angles.  You climb stairs to see pretty views, and then marvel how BIG this city is.  You gawk at weird modern buildings so close to lovely historical architecture.  

You watch the people and try to absorb their style.  You try all of the samples at the many L'Occitane stores.  You pose like statues in the museums and wonder if anyone will notice if you touch that piece of marble someone carved thousands of years ago.  Was it their job or their passion?  Did they bring their family to see the finished work and burst with pride?  Was this even their best work, or has that long been destroyed?  You fight crowds at museums to see the Mona Lisa and Degas' dancers, and then you stand in the strangely crowdless Orangerie surrounded by waterlilies.  You hit 30,000 steps and still go to late hours at Louvre because you can.  

You spend a lot of time underground, laughing at the posters for Euro-Disney and that picture from the middle-of-nowhere South America you went five years ago in the Argentine stop.   You get really mad that the line you really need to be on is down for construction and spend over an hour trying to get to Versailles.

You suffer through the crowds at Versailles and declare, once again, that some of these sites need more limited access.  You swear to never go again, because you can't imagine living in luxury in that disaster of tourism.

You eat steak frittes with pepper sauce and wonder why it never tastes that good at home.  You eat crepes out of paper cones that drip sugar and Nutella all over your hands and hope people don't judge you as you lick them off.  You buy umbrellas because it looks like rain but never get very wet.  You make faces at gargoyles and try to read stories in stained glass.  You wonder how much has changed since Picasso and Hemingway were here, and what they'd think of the changes.  

Paris was a pleasure this August.  It was supposed to be mom's trip but it turned into my own, and I'd go back in a heartbeat, not just for the croissants but for the sophisticated, fun, worldly environment I found there.  So my heart goes out to the city tonight as I write this, because it gave me so much this summer.  

I hope one day I can return the favor.  

October's Journey: Rhinebeck

One of my non-traveling hobbies is crocheting.  I make a mean star-shaped baby blanket, as all of my procreating friends have learned.  That said, I stick to basic patterns and am by no means a skilled fiber-worker.  Still, it's fun to hang with the cool kids, the ones who can make actual clothing and beautifully knit accessories. 

That led to a pilgrimage to the Mecca of all things yarn: the New York Sheep and Wool Festival in Rhinebeck, NY.  The event takes place at the height of foliage season and combines the best of a state fair with a really beautiful craft fair.  Great food, great crafts, and a wonderful good time with friends.  I limited my purchase to about $100 but I could have spent so much more!  Oh, and those pretzels- YUM.

We also go to explore the town a little which led to an eclectic dinner and a lovely morning at the farmer's market.  It even snowed, the first of the season!  Rhinebeck ended up being a great little getaway with all the best of fall- cider, leaves, warm clothes, and good friends.

Mmmmm,food

My haul

Florence Finds

Now that I've returned, these were a few of my favorite things while in Florence for a month:

Gelato:

Il Procopio: 

 Via Pietrapiana 60

Smooth and creamy with some creative mixed flavors.  Worth the walk!

Gelateria di Neri:

Via dei Neri 9/11, Between Uffizi and Santa Croce

My favorite in the city.  Everything is amazing- try a peach/raspberry combination, chocolate and caramel, or anything else really.

Gelateria Mordilatte:

Via dei Servi, 10/R

Close to the dome and not open late, but delicious! 

Restaurants:

Trattoria Benvenuto

Via della Mosca, 16

Great food, not busy.  Near the river

Trattoria 4 Leone

Via de' Vellutini, 1r (Oltrano)

The best meal of my life.  Get the fiochetti di pera.  Make a reservation.  It’s worth the hassle.  I have flown across oceans for this dish.

All’Antico Ristoro di Cambi

Via S.Onofrio, 1R (Oltrano)

Go here for meat!  The filet is heavenly, I couldn’t manage full Bistecca Fiorentina but other tables had it and it looked great. 

Pane e Toscana

Borgo degli Albizi 31

Great, great sandwiches.  No long line of tourists, just locals looking for a cheap lunch.   Their bread is to die for.  Skip the “famous” sandwich place by the river and come here instead. 

·         Best view: Piazzale Michelangelo at Sunset

·         Best hidden art gem: Mondays you can go into Orsanmichele.  Good art, great views from top floor

·         Best entertainment: Sunset on the Ponte Vecchio.

·         Best cost saver: Free water.  Fountains at Palazzo Vecchio, San Lorenzo, Ponte Vecchio, Across from Uffizi back exit, North side of Duomo, Piazza San Marco.  Refill your water bottle.

·         Best crowd-beater: Bargello Museum.  Famous stuff with few people

·         Best shopping: San Lorenzo markets (leather) and Mercato Centrale (food souvenirs)

·         Best way to see Uffizi: Go on the night it’s open late.  NO TOUR GROUPS

·         Best people watching: Sitting at the Loggia de Lanzi before dinner. 

·         Best way to buy wine: Conad City grocery stores. 

Prato

My students write research papers on Renaissance artists, so I spend a good part of my year immersed in the world of da Vinci, Botticelli, and Titian. It's wonderful and has left me with a list of works to track down around Italy.  It inspired trips to some out of the way churches and museums, and even side trips.

Prato was one of those.  Filippo Lippi is one of my favorite artists from the time period.  He was Botticelli's teacher, and has this beautiful softness to his work.  I love how he used the faces of his family in his art and how he managed to show translucent veils with only egg and tint.

Some of his last works are in Prato, about 20 minutes by train from Florence.  I rode out mid-morning, definitely not on the tourist trail that day.  When I got there, it was easy to find the main cathedral with a little help from Google Maps and GPS.  God bless technology.

The square was simple but pretty, not too hot yet on a cloudy morning.  The church has an external pulpit by Donatello but it was under construction.  You couldn't take pictures inside.  It was a simple nave with a center aisle and one large chapel that held the Holy Girdle, the city's famed relic.  Relics sort of freak me out so I moved quickly to the front of the church where you could pay 3 Euro to see the frescoes behind the altar up close.  There was an older man selling the tickets and he quickly became my favorite person in all of Italy.

My Italian is limited, but I can manage to order tickets.  But when he offered pamphlets, I reluctantly asked for English.  He was shocked- an English speaker, here, in his tiny town?  I brokenly told him that I liked Lippi and wanted to see the art.  It was the magic phrase.  Suddenly he was out of his chair, turning on lights, talking and gesturing about the works- there were frescoes by Uccello too.  I only understood a fraction of what he was saying but I knew: we were kindred Renaissance junkies, in love with the ethereal images lovingly created by long dead masters. 

I thought about sneaking pictures as I wandered behind the altar.  No one could see me.  But I didn't- something told me this was a place that needed to be a memory, not a photo.  I had the brochure to remember it by.

I stayed longer than needed and fondly bid farewell to my Pratonian guide at the door.  The day was quiet so I began to wander.  Turns out that the town boasts a pretty castle and a lot of churches.  Pretty soon the smell of cookies baking lured me downtown to a cantucci bakery and some delicious almond flavored souvenirs.

I was back in Florence by lunch time having thoroughly enjoyed my trip to "real" Italy.  As I exited the train in Santa Maria Novella, into the throng of tourists and backpackers, I couldn't help but wonder if more time in Prato would have been worthwhile.

Fresco Cycle at Prato.  Web Gallery of Art.  25 Sep 2015.  http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lippi/filippo/1450pr/00view0.jpg

 Not my photo, obviously.  Below are mine though:

Exterior of the Cathedral

Piazza in front of the Cathedral

Prato Castle.  Love this picture

Another church in town

This kid was SO EXCITED his father let him play in the fountain! 

Padua (or Padova)

I had a long list of Renaissance art that I wanted to see on this trip.  I actually got to most of them.  One of the biggest stretches was the Scrovengi Chapel in Padua.  It was quite a ride, and really, I spent €70 to take the train up to spend 20 minutes inside.  It was a bit much. 

But oh, it was amazing.  

The frescoes start about two feet about my head and cover all four walls of the chapel, reaching high up to the heavens.  Most of them are in remarkable condition given that they're from the 1200s!  The colors were bold, the expressions were clear on all of the figures faces, and it was easy to see how Giotto was considered the Father of the Renaissance just from being in the room.

Since you can't take photos inside, here is their official image:
 

"The Scrovengi Chapel", Padova Terme Eugane Convention and Visitors Bureau, 2014. 

For scale, my head came half-way up the square panels at the bottom.  Everything on the walls is paint.

Padua itself was a lovely little city, nothing at all Shakespeare-esque but perfectly beautiful in its own right.  High end shopping streets gave way to pretty squares with trees and churches.  There were a lot of students but not a lot of tour groups.  That's the kinds of crowds I can handle.  I loved walking around, and loved even more sitting in the park next to the chapel.  Within sight were Roman ruins, big beautiful trees, and of course the medieval chapel.  There was shade, and a breeze, and green, things that I haven't seen much of in Florence this month.

The only downside of the day was the two hour delay on the train getting there.  Luckily I made my reservation and skipping lunch just meant I got gelato twice that day.  Who can complain, really?

Scrovengi Chapel

Roman Ruins, remains of the Arena

Caffe Pedrocchi, meeting point of great minds through history

In the Giardini dell'Arena

Looking up in Padova

Have you seen Life is Beautiful?  *tears*

Full of Bologna

From the Piazza Maggiore- love those parapets!

One of my quests in life is to see every Michelangelo work.  I know it's probably a long shot (thanks, Pauline Chapel) but I think I can get to ALMOST all of them in the next 50 years. This week's adventure was to Bologna, only about a half hour north of Florence by train.

On my own without any good reference material on the city, I followed this walking tour. It was great, can't recommend it enough.  If you're a fan of Rick Steve's, it's perfect for you.  Bologna was perfect for a day trip because most of the sites are free and within an easy walk.  The only downside was the fact that the churches closed midday, which left a few hours in the hot sun without a lot to do.  

I started the day with the walk from the train station to the Piazza Maggiore.  Every guidebook tells you about the covered walkways in Bologna and the shade was definitely appreciated.  I followed the tour through the sites on the square and then down to the to towers and the university section of the city.  Being on the site of such an old place of learning was pretty awesome, especially seeing the walls covered in plaques honoring teachers from hundreds of years ago.  I found a great pizza spot for lunch- everyone by the towers was sitting eating giant take-away slices so I followed their lead and had a huge piece for only €1.50. Best deal of the trip! It was the Pizzeria Due Torre, if you're in the area. 

Giambologna's Neptune. 

After lunch I hung out in the shade by the cathedral for a while reading, then had some gelato while wandering through the Quadrilatero, or old market area. Finally I headed down to the church of St. Dominic, where the tomb of the actual saint is located.  Michelangelo made a few of the figures on the top.  I also saw works by an artist new to me at the church of St Petronius, which were inspirational to Michelangelo's Sistene chapel.  I'll add those in here later, updating from the app just lacks features that a real computer provides ( links, captions, etc.). Ah, technology.

Edit: Jacopo della Quercia.   Too bad I didn't bring my copy of Lives with me!  I had to read about him at home.

Anyway, Bologna was a lot of walking and a lot of construction in the city.  It was dusty and everything in Italy is just so dead and dry because of the heat wave.  A day was enough this time, I think, but the city was a wonderful side trip.  

The Two Towers

Michelangelo's carvings on the Tomb of St. Dominic

Field trip!

Do you know what medieval history teachers do on hundred-degree days in Italy? Track down Byzantine mosaics, of course!!  I know, I know, I'm such a dork.  But I've wanted to see these mosaics of Justinian and Theodora since I started teaching about Byzantium and this was finally my chance.  

The train station ticket machines were irksome because they couldn't find a route to get me to Ravenna before late afternoon, which just didn't seem right based on the guidebooks.  So I bought a ticket to Bologna, the connection spot, hoping there would be a train from there.  There was! Not sure why it didn't show up in Florence but it all worked out.  

First stop was lunch, piadine, a folded flat red sandwich on the piazza del popolo in Ravenna.  The city was almost dead on a hot Sunday afternoon.  Then it was off to the big attraction- the church of San Vitale where the mosaics are.  You get really weird looks when you walk in and say things like "there you are!" to the dead guys depicted on the walls.  It was so cool to see them up close, and so much more vibrant that the images in my PowerPoint!  

The ticket included five other stops that featured Byzantine mosaics.  It's hard to believe that this was once the capital of the (failing) Roman Empire because there was just no one around and very little architecture from the time.  Once you went inside the buildings, though- wow, the art.  I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Home was pretty easy.  I had a long conversation with some older Italian ladies who assumed I spoke Italian.  It was mostly about weather,  I think.  I only got about every tenth word. :)