Field trip!

Do you know what medieval history teachers do on hundred-degree days in Italy? Track down Byzantine mosaics, of course!!  I know, I know, I'm such a dork.  But I've wanted to see these mosaics of Justinian and Theodora since I started teaching about Byzantium and this was finally my chance.  

The train station ticket machines were irksome because they couldn't find a route to get me to Ravenna before late afternoon, which just didn't seem right based on the guidebooks.  So I bought a ticket to Bologna, the connection spot, hoping there would be a train from there.  There was! Not sure why it didn't show up in Florence but it all worked out.  

First stop was lunch, piadine, a folded flat red sandwich on the piazza del popolo in Ravenna.  The city was almost dead on a hot Sunday afternoon.  Then it was off to the big attraction- the church of San Vitale where the mosaics are.  You get really weird looks when you walk in and say things like "there you are!" to the dead guys depicted on the walls.  It was so cool to see them up close, and so much more vibrant that the images in my PowerPoint!  

The ticket included five other stops that featured Byzantine mosaics.  It's hard to believe that this was once the capital of the (failing) Roman Empire because there was just no one around and very little architecture from the time.  Once you went inside the buildings, though- wow, the art.  I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Home was pretty easy.  I had a long conversation with some older Italian ladies who assumed I spoke Italian.  It was mostly about weather,  I think.  I only got about every tenth word. :) 

An early Renaissance day

It's hot.  Like, really hot.  Like third-day-in-a-row 100 degrees hot (the iPad has no degrees symbol.  This annoys me.).  Because of that I'm trying to use the siesta model from Spain- go out early, then rest in the heat of the day, then venture out again at night. Worked well yesterday- I went to the Medici palace early, then came home and chilled in the AC until evening, when I went back out and read on the steps of the Duomo.   It as pretty awesome.  I bought a copy of Vasari's Lives of the Artists and have been reading it chapter by chapter while looking at the art by the artist being explained.  It's pretty awesome.

Last night was Ghiberti. I also learned that if you stand next to a piece of art with an art history book, people are going to ask you a lot of questions.  Good think I like teaching.  :)

Today I continued thought the early Renaissanr chapters with Paolo Uccello, Brunelleschi, and Luca Della Robbia.  First up was Uccello, at the Santa Maria Novella church.  His huge fresco cycle here was badly damaged in the flood of 1966 but one of the interesting features was that since the color was drained away you can see the original drawings underneath on the plaster.  I also saw two of his works in the duomo, the unique clock and his picture of a statue of John Hawking.  

For Brunelleschi, I have already climbed the dome so I mostly just sat under it and read his chapter.  I did visit his grave in the basement though.  The poor man, buried in the gift shop.

Luca Della Robbia is a little harder to track down since most of his work is in museums but I know there are some tondos in the Piazza del'Annunziata so I got some gelato and wandered that way.  It was hot sitting there.  Even in the shade the stones were like frying pans.  I didn't stay long, since thankfully his chapter was short.  

Lucca and Pisa

Today was such a joy.  We planned to go to Lucca, a small town that has been recommended to me over and over again.  So we bought our train tickets last night and then boarded a train about nine this morning. The regional trains are such a slow trip after only using the high speed ones until now.

We got into Lucca about ten thirty and rented bikes from a shop inside the walls.  They were great bikes, and we rode then up onto the walls and around the entire city. We did the loop twice, once to learn it and once again to take pictures. It was awesome to be moving and have a breeze! Biking was also a great change from walking. The loop is about 2.5 miles, so after two rounds we ventured down into the city and saw a few of the sites. There wasn't a lot, just a few piazas and churches.

We had lunch (pasta with pesto for me, ravioli for Kim) at a place near the bike shop and then the day took a turn for the adventurous.

Lucca was cute but we've had our share for walking around. Why not be bold and take the train a little further to Pisa? Kim wanted to see the leaning tower, so we bought tickets and headed out. It was hot once we arrived so we made it a shott visit-  see the tower, take pictures, and go. It was also super crowded, something I hadn't missed during our half day in Lucca!

I love days when the unexpected happens. Pisa was a great detour for the afternoon and a memorable site for both of us.

Buona Sera

Florence is a walking city, evidenced by the 20,000+ steps I'm logging on my phone's pedometer every day.  It seems there is nothing so much to do as to walk around and look at stuff, whether it's people or art or a little of both.

Yesterday after dinner we caught the sunset over the Arno and it was just beautiful.  There were musicians on the bridge playing Coldplay's Fix You as the sun went down. The line "lights will guide you home" really made me a little teary! I'm not sure if I took it as lights guided me here, in this beautiful moment or if I took it as the setting sun in the west would guide me to home later on, but it was moving in that unexpected way that always makes you stop and think.  

Galleria Borghese

Last time I came to Italy I stopped blogging in Florence. I just couldn't find the words for it.  This time I never really got started, so I'm hoping to make up for lost time.

I said goodbye to Jenna and Randi this morning. They took the train to Venice, while I headed down to Rome once again. There were a lot of young backpackers on the train which made things... Interesting. And loud. But I put in headphones read a book, slept a little, and it was okay.

After our pickpocketing adventures on the Metro I decided to splurge on a cab to the Galleria Borghese, an Art Museum I've never been able to visit before. I arrived a little before my 1 o'clock reservation so I had time to eat a snack in the gorgeous park and people watch a little. Here too they've begun allowing cameras, which I have mixed feelings about. I like being able to take pictures I can use in my classroom but I feel like I look at the art better when I'm not worried about a camera.

The Bernini statues were amazing. I'm slowly becoming a fan even though he's not my preferred Renaissance time. The rooms were beautiful and they were setting up for some sort of fashion show so there were all these beautiful dresses mixed into the statues and paintings. My phone decided two steps in the door was a good time to update so I wandered while freaking out that it was downloading something on my limited international data plan but once it was fixed I could focus on the art.

Why are so many amazing statues about rape? I mean really, is this the most evocative subject the artist who come up with? It's hard to appreciate the beauty when there's such violence hidden beneath it. The best part of the museum? Air conditioning.

I'm at the Westin now, waiting for Kim to arrive.  Then more fun begins!

Ready to go

Sitting at Logan airport enjoying my last glimpse of Massachusetts for a while. My flight boards in 45 minutes and it's off to Italy for four weeks then Paris for five days on the way home.

Last year we had a month to replan a trip when Thailand had a coup. This year I hit a bump four days  before leaving: mom had a freak accident and won't able to come over at the end of the trip as expected. It means a lot more alone timw than expected, which is a little scary, especially combined with concern for her recouperating at home. She was adament that I not change my plans though, so with a hug and best wishes I left her this morning and took the first steps of this journey.

Foo Fighters' Here I Go was on the radio as I drove away  from home. I'm taking that as a good omen.

May's Adventure: North to New Hampshire

Memorial Day weekend was just beautiful weather here, the kind that said "get out and do something in the sunshine!"  Ideas kept changing, but Saturday afternoon we had a definitive plan for Sunday: lunch in Portsmouth and then heading inland to a friend's cabin on a lake.

So our adventure began with Dunkin' Donuts followed by a leisurely drive to Portsmouth that may have involved a slight detour into Maine.  Oops.  Back on track, we wandered through the down for a bit, marveling at the quaint shops and purchasing a few impulse buys.  I'm a bit of a sucker for the flavored balsamic vinegars from La Roux.  Portsmouth is a great coastal town that's managed to keep its historic feel while adding great 21st century features like easy parking and a variety of stores and restaurants.  I used to love stopping there when we went to visit family in Maine. My friend and I had lunch at Flatbread Company, one of our favorite restaurants.  It's fun to compare the different locations because they use local ingredients so the menus are slightly different.

Then it was about a 40 minute drive to the lake, which involved a very long and rutted driveway to get to the cabin.  But once there, the views were spectacular, the company delightful, and the food bountiful.  Sometimes you don't have to go far or seeking a grand adventure to really appreciate the world around you.  This weekend was a good reminder of that- there's plenty to marvel at even a day trip away.

April Adventures - Road Trip

I was torn on where to go in April.  Once DC got moved to March, it meant that I had a full week of vacation to play with, and not too many of the 1000 Places to See Before You Die left within driving range.  I also had a new baby cousin in Cincinnati who I was dying to meet.  Eventually it turned into a road trip to Ohio.  My best friend and travel partner decided she also needed a vacation, so she drove out to Chicago with me and then flew home while I finished the drive.  It ended up being a lovely trip, though I definitely need to break up the long days in the car a little more when planning these things.  Some thoughts from the road:

• Upstate New York smells like manure this time of year. Lots of farming. Not fun to drive through.


• Seeing trees start to bud after this long winter is like the sun coming out after a storm. There is life again.


• Messing with border agents is fun. "How long were you in Canada?" 4 hours. "What was the purpose of your visit?" Anytime you have the chance to have dinner in another country you should do that. "Did you buy anything?" Poutine.


• Niagara Falls somehow seems smaller than when I was younger.


• Cleveland has the potential to be a very cool city.  We loved West Side Market and wandering around the Warehouse District.


• The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame needs an audio tour more than any other museum I've visited.  It also needs a dance floor.  I still spent four hours there.


• When it's really windy, my car's MPG drops by 10.  Not fun.


• Stopped for gas at the Ohio/Indiana border and then drove straight through without spending anything in Indiana.  No love for that state.


• Gary, Indiana is probably the most depressing place I've ever been, and I've traveled to some of the poorest areas on the planet.  I think it's the combination of the industrial wasteland and the large billboards for Adult Superstores.


• Chicago traffic sucks.


• Blue Chicago, a blues club, did not disappoint and provided a great night out.  Even dancing with the drunk guy was amusing.  My friend having a fight with her husband via text message the whole time was not.


• The fact that Frank Lloyd Wright and Hemingway lived in the same neighborhood makes me want to move there just on hope that it's something in the water.


• Indiana gets some credit for the many windmills.  Yay, Green Energy!


• Country music is appropriate in the midwest.  I even started to recognize a Lady Antebellum song (Bartender) the third time I heard it.  Andy Grammer's "Honey I'm Good" is oddly catching and apparently on pop stations in the midwest.  Never heard it before this trip.  I fear it's coming.


• My cousin's baby is very cute and looks JUST like him.  It's adorable.


• Ohio is deceptively large.  And apparently you go through West Virginia when you drive from Cincinnati to Pittsburgh.  That was a bit of a surprise.


• Primanti Brothers might be a Pittsburgh institution but it's not all that good.  Glad to see my cousin and her family though, and any excuse for chicken fingers is a good one.


• Driving into Pittsburgh at night there is no traffic.  It's a beautiful city, especially when the stadiums are all lit up.  I should explore there sometime because I've always stayed with family outside the city and just gone in for a day (That damn incline.  It's like it's the only thing locals know to do with visitors).


• Pennsylvania goes on forever and as much as it's beautiful, it's the same thing over and over again.

• Listened to Serial on the Pittsburgh to New York stretch.  SO ADDICTING.  I'm glad I got to binge-listen because I think listening to it weekly would have driven me nuts.


• Dinner with Amy, awesome as always.  She needs to be closer. Nyack is such a cute little downtown.


• I love that point in a trip when you can turn off the GPS and just know the way home.  That's the Tappan Zee Bridge for me (the main one over the Hudson between NY and CT), about 3.5 hours away.

Niagara Falls- four hours of fun in Canada

Ohio is flat

Frank Lloyd Write House Chicago

Hotel view in Pittsburgh

March Madness Journey

Originally I was thinking DC in April, but when I found an amazing deal on a plane ticket, it got bumped to March.  A long weekend, just a little get away this time, but it would be a great chance to reconnect with college friends.

I flew down on Friday morning and checked into a great historical hotel on Embassy Row near Dupont Circle.  I'd always heard such wonderful things about the area but never spent much time there.  People were right- it's a great place to stay, much better than the more touristy areas that are dead after the museums close.  I loved having so many great places close by.

The first day I had lunch at Kramerbooks and Afterwords Cafe- the butternut squash ravioli was only OK, but the key lime pie was AMAZING.  I wish I'd had time to go back for another piece.  I browsed around for a while and then started walking, killing time really.  I walked down Connecticut Ave to Farragut Park, and then on to the White House.  Which I didn't realize was the White House because I was pretty lost.  Oops.  But hey, White House!  That was fun.

I took the Metro out to Virginia to meet with my college roommate, and then we joined another friend for dinner at the Lost Dog Cafe and desert at Sugar Shack.  Oh, my God, the Samoa donut.  I could have eaten a dozen.  I picked up a few extras for breakfast the next day or two.

Day two I headed to National Geographic, but decided it was silly to pay for a museum when there were free ones a few blocks away.  I perused the gift shop for a bit.  Then I went to the Archives.  I hadn't been there since I was 10, so it was practically something new.  It was pretty cool.  I mostly just enjoyed hearing all the parents telling their kids about the documents.  I tend to be way too cynical about civics in our world today, but it turns out there are a lot of people out there telling their kids about the Founding Fathers!  Go America!

Archives and Navy Memorial

I had a quick sandwich lunch and then ran over to the National Gallery for a bit.  I had a bit of a headcold so wasn't feeling great so the visit didn't last long.  I ended up going back to the hotel to sleep.  Dinner was sushi at Raku, which was pretty good but I was seated sort of alone in a corner of the bar- way to not make me feel like a loser, hostess person!  Dining alone is still sometimes tough.

Day three I was feeling pretty miserable, but I braved it out to the Freer and Sackler museums.  I wanted to see the Hiroshige prints in the Traveler's Exhibit.  It didn't disappoint, once I found it.  I also visited the African art museum.  They win for the worst layout ever.  Lunch was Shake Shack, a happy accident, and then nap time again.

I was feeling better in the evening and it was finally getting warmer, so I wandered to an Asian bowl restaurant and had a great Satay rice bowl for dinner.  Then because it was still light out (yay, spring!) I got a cinnamon hot chocolate from Starbucks and walked around the neighborhood for a while.  Then I had to grade research papers, joy.

Monday I tried to go to the Library of Congress but the streets were closed off.  Giving up, I walked back to the National Gallery for a more proper tour.  I love the little courtyards there, and sat with my favorite Renaissance pieces for a while.  The Piero di Cosimo exhibit was interesting- I really liked the part about the restorations of one of the more battered panels.

Almost Cherry Blossoms!

I wandered back to the hotel from there, stopping at Wicked Waffle for lunch (delicious!) and then it was time for home.  All in all, it would have been a better trip if I'd been feeling better but there are worse places to be sick than in a grand hotel with a king size bed, huge TV, and daily replenishment of tissues.

February's Florida Journey

Having a cousin who lives in Orlando and loves company is really such a blessing.  It's cheap to fly there, and when there's four feet of snow on the ground here in the Northeast, getting out of town is nothing more than miraculous. 

I wanted to do something different on this trip, and it turned out that February is prime manatee viewing season in central Florida.  The big blobby sea cows sounded like a great outdoor adventure- sun, wildlife, what could be better.  So we went canoeing near a spring in Blue Spring state park and got to see several of the animals up close and personal as they entered and exited the spring.  I hadn't been out on the water since Hanoi last summer and man, my shoulders could feel it after only and hour!  We took my cousin's boys with us, which was even more fun.

Then for my birthday we did the Disney thing.  I really just wanted that giant birthday button, OK?  But I also got to go on the new mine train roller coaster in Fantasyland which was great fun, and brought the biggest of the littles onto Splash Mountain, my favorite ride down there.  Hey Disney- it's looking a little worn, maybe time for a face lift?

Other trip highlights include buying barbecue from a trailer in the gas station parking lot, walking around Lake Eola in downtown Orlando, and just getting to spend time with family that I don't see often enough. 

Everyone needs a trip warm in the middle of a long winter, and this was perfectly timed to remind me that the sun is still there and will return eventually.

January's Journey- New York City

For the third month in a row, I spent the first weekend in New York.  That's a little crazy considering I usually only get there once or twice a year.  This trip was special though- it was all about Broadway.  Here are the highlights:

• Indina Menzel in If/Then.  My friends are HUGE fans and convinced me that I needed to see the show with the original cast.  I'm so glad they did.  The story was gut-wrenching and uplifting at the same time, and the music was wonderful.  It's been years since I'd seen a show and this was a welcome back to Broadway with a bang.
• Ess-a-Bagel's Cinnamon Raisin with Apple Walnut Cream Cheese.  Heaven in a bakery.
• Metropolitan Museum of Art- a run-though the Renaissance sections, Egyptian temple, Greece and Rome, and then some wandering in the Pacific cultures section.  It was crazy crowded though.
• Pizza!  Don't even know the name of the shop, something on Lexington in the 80s.  Delicious New York Pizza.
• The Strand- and I didn't buy ANYTHING because there's still a stack on my windowsill at home from the last two visits...
• It's Only a Play with Matthew Broderick, Nathan Lane, Stockard Channing, Megan Mullalley, F. Murray Abram, Rupert Gint, and a new guy.  It was awesome.  Super funny in an intimate theater that really felt like you were spying on someone's bedroom.
• Shake Shack.  My first taste.  Can't say I thought the burgers were all that amazing, but the milk shake was the stuff dreams are made of.

Suprisingly I took zero pictures during this trip, so you'll have to deal with words on this one, but overall it was great- not too cold and not raining, though it did snow all the way home.  

Dominican Days

Back in 2010 when I spent 2 weeks in Argentina, my Spanish got good.  Relatively good, since language is not my strength, but I swore then and there that for the rest of my life I'd visit someplace Spanish-speaking at least every-other year to keep my skills up.  So it was Costa Rica in 2012, and here comes 2014 and I didn't have anything planned.  But looking at my school calendar I realized there was some time off for Rosh Hashanah in September, and hey, my sister happened to be free the same weekend.  Her criteria was beach.  Mine was Spanish and under $750.  Hello, Dominican Republic.

We flew in with a connection from Philadelphia and arrived in gorgeous, beautiful sunny tropical weather.  There was Caribbean music playing in the airport, which looked like a giant cabana.  Our hotel shuttle awaited- is there anything cooler than a guy with your name on a sign waiting after customs? 

We stayed in the Westin Punta Cana, a new hotel that seemed to mix the luxury of a resort with the old-school beach hotel vibe.  We both thought it reminded us a little of our summers in Ocean City, NJ when we were young- but much nicer.  Our room was great, on the third floor with beautiful views of the pool and ocean. 

I wish I could say that I explored all the sights of the island, but this trip wasn't about tourism or cultural immersion.  It was about the beach.  I read some wonderfully trashy books, talked baseball with the hotel employees (Big Papi!), and drank a lot of passionfruit mojitos.  I wish there'd been more tropical fruits and local foods, but that's the trade off for staying in a big Western resort.  The steaks, though, were to die for. 

So just a little jaunt to the island to bring back summer as fall sets in here in New England.  I can see myself going back someday- it was as beautiful as Hawaii but a heck of a lot closer.

Ha Long Bay

I was ready to give up on Vietnam after the chaos of Hanoi, but Ha Long Bay has restored my appreciation for the country.  We used a tour company- Handspan Tours- for a 2 night cruise on the Bay on a ship called the Treasure Junk.  Usually I avoid organized travel, but this was a great choice.  They had plenty of down time to appreciate the scenery, and their tour operated like clockwork.

The drive to the coast was long- about four hours- through the rice paddies and small towns of northern Vietnam.  They were planting rice in the fields as we went, which was great to see.  It was raining when we arrived, and we got a little wet transferring to a tender and then onto the main boat.  But lunch was delicious and the sun was out by the time we got into the kayaks.  The trip the first day wasn't long, only an hour or two.  The tides were wrong for the beach, but it was still a great little adventure.  Afterwards, we relaxed in lounge chairs on the top deck, and it was just heaven.  Seriously, this is what heaven is like.  A padded lounge chair on the top deck, perfectly comfortable temperature, a waiter bringing you drinks, a book, and the sun setting on one side between the islands while the moon rose on the other side.  HEAVEN.

The first night we had dinner and then returned to the top deck to bask in the moonlight.  We almost fell asleep up there, it was really incredible.  The boat just lulled you- and I usually get seasick but felt none of that.

I slept so well in our cabin.  I woke up refreshed and excited for the day- they had Tai Chi scheduled, but it was cancelled because of the rain.  We had breakfast and then headed out in the kayaks for our long ride.  We paddled all morning to a private beach between two of the rock islands.  We had time to rest, swim, and take pictures, then went to a day boat (like the Treasure Junk but without the cabins) for lunch and relaxation.  After, we returned to the big boat and could hang out or kayak more.  Julie was a little sunburned and I was pretty done with rowing so we stayed on the boat.  I went back to my favorite top deck.  Before dinner we started to chat with some of the Australians who were on the tour.  We continued the conversation through dinner and then up to the top deck in the dark for happy hour.  It was great to hear about life there, how their politics are so similar to ours. 

The last day we had a quick bite and then a tour of a floating fishing village- all of the houses were on rafts.  They government is trying to close them down, so many were abandoned, but a few people still kept their old lifestyle.  They were also pearl farmers.  Then it was back to the boat for brunch, packing up, and heading in to shore.  And of course the four hour drive back to Hanoi.

We shopped a bit and had one last dinner with some of the people from the tour - more spring rolls! 

Hanoi Part 2

The second day in Hanoi was a long one- we started back at the lake with the Jade Temple, hoping to get a little sight-seeing in before the rain.  It worked- we had a beautiful visit to the little island and then walked along the shore taking in the sites and statues in the park.  We made our way back to the Cathedral area, when the skies opened up and it just POURED.  We rode out the storm in a Highland Coffee, Vietnam’s version of Starbucks.   Their frozen coffee drinks are delicious. 

After the rain lessened, we ventured out into the drizzle to see some of the streets in the Old Quarter.  The “silk” street provided some good shopping, and we even found a shop that sold old propaganda posters, which were fascinating to look through.  I wish everyone who studied history had a chance to go to the places where events happened.  It’s been fascinating seeing the Vietnam’s perspective of the “American War.”  If I had more time, I’d head to the war museum, but given our limited days, the streets are a better place to learn about life here.

We were fading pretty quickly by lunch time, but found a great Indian restaurant called Namaste Hanoi from a Trip Advisor recommendation.  It was one of the best meals of the trip- delicious chicken, garlicky naan.  Just the thing to perk us up again for more exploring.

 fter lunch we looked for Buddhas statues and saw a few temples.  We’d both dressed for hot weather so going inside wasn’t an option (bare shoulders and all) but we could see a lot of people visiting for the full moon.  It’s good luck to burn money at the local temple. 

Our next stop was the Hom market, the second floor of which was just all fabric sellers.  It was incredible- I think they have anything you could ever want to buy.  I picked up some black and white silk blend.  Not sure what I’ll do with it, but it’ll be a good souvenier.  

From there we headed north toward the Opera house.  Walking is a challenge in the city- sidewalks are more for cafes and parking motorbikes than walking.  Most people seem to ride here.  You have to constantly be thinking and weaving around obstacles when you walk.  Crossing the street is insane.  Someone in Laos told us that you have to just wait for a break and then stare down oncoming traffic when walking.  It works pretty well, but that doesn’t mean you don’t have a few near-collisions!  

The Opera house was a beautiful yellow and white building with, hey, another Highland Coffee next door.  The heat index was up in the 120 range again, so sitting in the shade with frozen coffee sounded good.  Caffeine and ice are always good on a hot day.  Our final destination was another long walk- a street called Ma May known for its architecture and lacquer shops.

Ma May street was incredibly crowded, and I was about at my limit so wasn’t in the best of mood when we got there.  We shopped some, found the meeting point for our tour the next day, and tried some weasel coffee which wasn’t as gross as it should have been.  Of course I spilled it all over myself.  Given that it was the end of the day and ladies with bamboo hanging baskets kept trying to put them on my shoulders, I was done.  My friend helped me find a new shirt to buy so I wasn’t quite such a slob, and then we found a cab back.  It drove down the street that was setting up for the weekend market, which meant it took forever to get to the hotel.  Dinner was in the restaurant there that night- not great, and slow, but convenient.  I was glad to be leaving Hanoi tomorrow.

Hanoi Havoc

After deep-in-the-jungle Angkor and sleep Luang Prabang, Hanoi is an assault on the senses.  We arrived late at night after some flight delays and got a first-hand account on the frenetic pace here in the taxi ride to the hotel- it was wild.  We almost got run off the road by a giant piece of construction equipment.  It was a late-night room-service dinner for us, something off of the American menu as a reminder that in a big city, you can have international cuisine.

We slightly over-slept the next morning, a combination of a cold bug for Julie and exhaustion for me, but got up and moving on the rainy day.  Our first stop was probably the most bizarre of the trip- Ho Chi Minh.  When I was in Beijing I went to see Mao and have been fascinated by the fact that these famous dictators are just preserved and out there for the world to see a half-century after their death.  The taxi driver dropped us off in right next to the mausoleum plaza- but we had to walk about a mile around to actually get to the entrance.  By the time arrived the rain had stopped and we checked bags and followed the long lines to see him.  I’ll be honest- the best thing was the air conditioning inside.  But now I’ve seen 2/3 famous preserved dead communists and will hopefully get to Lenin before I die.  It’s a weird bucket list, I realize.

After Ho Chi Minh, we went through the gardens behind the old palace.  It was pretty, but getting hot.  Really hot.  We tried to find the one-pillar pagoda, but it was hidden somewhere nearby and just not showing up.  The museum was there, but I was pretty done with Uncle Ho by that point, so we decided instead to visit something a little older.

The Temple of Literature was a highlight in Hanoi, and only a short walk away.  Like the Buddhist temples I’d seen in China, it was arranged in several courtyards, a perfectly preserved medieval university.  We could see the first four courtyards that day.  It was still hot, but being in such a lovely environment with animal topiaries on the grass and curling dragons on the roof made it easier to bear.  There was a group leaving an offering at the Confucian altar so we got to see –and hear- the ritual.  The drum and bell are LOUD! 

Lunch was at a nearby buffet, a sampling of traditional Vietnamese food.  It was a little expensive but there wasn’t much around.  We didn’t do great with the Rough Guide food recommendations here- it got better once we found trip advisor.

Given that the heat index had passed 120, we gave up on the day after lunch and went back to the hotel to rest in the AC and swim.  Swimming never happened- we crashed.  Oops.  Well, dinner back in the city made up for it.  We ate near the cathedral, at an iron table on the balcony of the second floor.  Hanoi beer was served, which wasn’t as good as Beerlao, but the spring rolls were delicious and the coconut curry hit the spot.  After, we wandered down to the lake area and took pictures, strolling along with what seemed like the entire population of the city.  We had ice cream from a stand (which consisted of me pointing at whatever the kid in front of me got, holding up two fingers, and then holding up a handful of money and letting the server take what I owe- minimal communication is key!) and met some local teens who wanted to practice their English.  It was an exhausting first day, even with a nap, and an assault on your senses all around- wet in the morning, unbearably hot in the midday, smelly wherever you go, and a never-ceasing cacophony of engines and horns from millions of cars and motorbikes.  Tomorrow we hope to see more of the sites and finally do some souvenir

shopping.

More time in Laos

view Nam Khan River from a lunch spot

Laos has been such a pleasant surprise.  Much of our time was just spent wandering the streets of Luang Prabang looking at the architecture and studying the people.  We ate by the river several times- the cool breezes felt great after boiling in the hot, humid air all day.  One night we went to Tamarind, a restaurant that promises traditional Laotian food.  We split an appetizer of five different dishes- pork sausage, water buffalo jerky, a chicken with coriander (cilantro), and two things wrapped in banana leaves.  I loved everything but the cilantro-laced one (bleh).  Then I had "young pumpkin" which I'd call squash, but it was drenched in coconut milk and ginger.  Delicious!  My favorite thing, though, were the frozen coffees, a Coolata-like beverage that cut the heat day or night.

Upper Cave

After the waterfall day, it rained.  A lot.  We'd planned to go to the caves with discarded Buddhas up the river, and once the raid let up a bit, we started out to find a boat.  It was harder than expected, but we finally found a guy with a pretty dilapidated longboat, and off we went.  The ride was delightful- cool
breeze, not sweating, and the lull of the engine.  I admit to falling asleep.  The caves were pretty disappointing.  It was wet, and I thought that the Buddha statues would be bigger.  Most of them were pretty small.  We stopped at a Whiskey village the way back, where the community tried to sell handicrafts and  liquor.  It wasn't my favorite, but our captain really enjoyed the whiskey and sticky rice.  He put headphones in and sang to himself all the way back home.

That afternoon we crossed the river on the local ferry.  Seeing the little kids heading home from school was adorable.  I wasn't into anything else on the other side of the river.  It was peoples' homes, their private lives.  I felt like an intruder.  So I know all the guidebooks say you should go there, but really, I'd recommend staying away.  Let people leave the tourists behind when they go home from work at the end of the day.

Mama and Baby Maxi

We spent a day at the elephant village, which was one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences.  We heard a lot of talk about how terrible these elephant preserves could be, but I was very pleasantly surprised.  The animals were well cared for, with no prods anywhere in sight, and there were strict limits on the amount of time they spent with visitors.  We did the one-day mahout training, which meant more time with the elephants.  We learned how to ride them, then did a ride in a seat, then after lunch rode the elephants into the water.  My elephant was pretty playful, and you could see the bond she had with the mahout who rode along with me.  It was pretty awesome. 

Streetside fruit stand

Our last day was dedicated to souvenir shopping and taking photos of the local scene.   I was sad to be leaving such a tranquil place, especially since the forecast for Hanoi wasn't any cooler.