My fascination with Samarkand began the first time I heard of it. I was in college, studying ancient trade routes, and it sounded like the most exotic place in the world. As I got older and learned more, through teaching the Mongols and Timur, Samarkand jumped to the top of my "someday I'll go there" list. I even looked up plane tickets a few times- very expensive and long layovers from Boston!
However, if I had a year to travel, I was gong to go there. It was the last stop on the Uzbekistan tour and did not disappoint. We arrived by van from Bukhara at sunset, just able to see the dome of Timur's mausoleum peeking above the trees. The large statue of him sat regally nearby. After dinner we walked over to see it lit up at night. It was magical! Like something out of a fairy tale.
In the morning we returned, to visit the tombs inside and walk through the complex. I couldn't believe I was seeing the cursed tomb I teach about every year. The tiles were so beautiful on the gate and on the done. Standing at the grave of such an influential world leader was humbling. This man shaped the world in the 1300s.
Next up was the famous Registan, where three huge tiled madrassas faced a massive open square. Each had its own unique tile patterns, with fantastical animals and floral motifs. I could have stared at the tile for hours. I took a lot of photos. From there we walked to the Bibi Khanym mosque which has-- wait for it-- more tiles and turquoise domes. You'd think I would be sick of it, but it was just too pretty. Much of this site was still unrestored, but some parts were cry impressive, especially the huge dome.
After lunch we went to the market, to see the dried fruit, nuts, cheese, candy, and fresh produce available. It was fun to walk around. Our last stop of the day was a necropolis, the Shah-i-Zinda. The guide promised the ultimate example of tiles, and he was not wrong. Huge mausoleums lined the street up the hill in dazzling walls of blue and teal. Every time you thought you had seen the best, another corner led to more beauty. In the late afternoon sun, it was spectacular.
That evening, we walked up to see the Registan at night. It was lit beautifully. They also had a short light show about the history of the region. It was really well done, Disney quality! It highlighted a lot of the themes I teach.
Our last day in Samarkand we saw some smaller sites. We visited the history museum with incredible frescoes showing foreign visitors to the city. We walked up to the old city, now a deserted field since the Mongol invasions. We went to the site of the astrological observatory and saw the small museum there. After lunch, it was just shopping and then boarding the train back to Tashkent.
Overall I loved my time in Uzbekistan. I had a great group and guide, which helped, but everywhere people were friendly and helpful. The food was delicious, the sites powerful and pretty, and the accommodations much better than expected. It was a dream come true to go, and my trip will be a treasured memory forever.
No comments:
Post a Comment