A Week in Guatemala

I was so excited to go to Guatemala and then I got spooked.  I booked the trip based on the recommendations of my many students from Guatemala, taking their advice to figure out a week long overview of the country.  And then I started to research and talk to other travelers.  Most people said they were too scared to go.  The US government rated Guatemala as a Level 3 country, which means try not to go there. I started seeing all of this and I panicked.  Yup, the seasoned traveler who had no problem traipsing through Egypt alone got scared.  And I pulled back a lot of what I'd planned to do, regrettably so now.

Because Guatemala was awesome. I had NO problems there- zero, zip, nada.  I should have done more.  I should have been bold.  I hope someday I can get back and see the things I'd missed.

The first day there I arrived at 2 AM, so I took a rest day.  The hotel had a lovely pool, and the weather was finally warm enough to sit out in the sun.  I read books, relaxed, ate some great food, and geared up for the next day.

I booked a city tour, that ended up being with another couple from the US.  We visited a scenic overlook outside of town with a view of the volcanoes first, followed by a drive down the Avenida de las Americas, where different countries had built monuments on the many plazas.  From there we drove into the city, past the halls of government to the historic center.  We strolled down the busy pedestrian street 6a Avenida, noting the famous arch over the road and the Art Deco shopping arcades that led to the Plaza de la Constitution.  The main square was huge, with a giant fountain in the middle.  There were Red Cross trucks on the perimeter, giving first aid who to any who came by.  The guide explained that there was a lack of medical care in the region and many people relied on those trucks.

We went into the huge Cathedral on the square, which was simple but massive.  It's weird to see such European architecture in the Americas.  Afterward, we walked down the block to the Mercado Centrale, a massive fruit and vegetable market.  Most of the people selling bought fresh from farmers that morning.  The food was so vibrant and inviting.  Our final stop was out in the hills, at a fancy shopping zone with beautiful views.  The tour was a good overview of the city and the guide was fantastic.  It was definitely the way to go to get an introduction without wandering alone.

The highlight of Guatemala for me was Tikal.  I've been reading about Tikal since college and have wanted to see the giant pyramids for a long time.  I did a one day trip, which meant leaving at 4 AM to catch a flight to Flores.  From there, we were joined by an archaeologist guide who led us through the site.  We lucked into a ride up the long walk into the center of the site.  We stopped just before the Great Plaza and walked through the rest.  The pyramids were amazing, and our guide definitely knew a lot about the Maya people who built them.  We were able to climb several of the structures, thanks to wooden staircases place near the building ruins.  This preserved the structure while still allowing views from the top- genius.  I was super excited to see the spot where a scene from Star Wars was filmed too. But mostly, I just loved the jungle setting of these ruins.  I loved the way many were yet uncovered (though excavated, an important distinction from our guide).  I loved all of the wildlife!  We saw spider monkeys, coati, leaf cutter ants, and agouti in the park.  Mostly, I loved the hidden history still being unveiled as the jungle is slowly cut away.  The day was long, as we then had to fly back to Guatemala City, but totally worth it.

My last stop in Guatemala was Antigua, a pretty little colonial city.  It was the capital until its location near 3 volcanoes made it undesirable.  In fact, the volcano Fuego was letting off some steam when we were there!  The main cathedral was a huge yellow Baroque building with tons of white plaster decorations.  We couldn't go inside because it was a festival day, but the exterior was lovely.  The famous arch over the road that features in so many publicity shots for the city was done in the same colors. It connected sections of the convent to the chapel.  We wandered through markets and shops, visiting a jade jewelry producer who highlighted the history of the stone in the region.  We also saw the main square, main Cathedral, and houses of government.  The fountains, the flowers, and the colonial architecture made for beautiful pictures.  For lunch I tried Pepian, a meat stew that would have been delicious without all of the cilantro. 

I should have done more in Guatemala.  I'm kicking myself for not going to Lake Atitlan.  I know it's not hard to go back, but I wish I hadn't gotten so freaked out about being mugged or kidnapped or whatever.  I walked around Guatemala City on my own with no issues multiple times- evidence that you shouldn't believe everything you read online.